Everyone’s eyes have unique features, and as a lash artist, your goal is to make them pop! Knowing how to customise lash extensions for your client is crucial to a lash job that truly enhances her natural features. It’s the difference between a generic drugstore makeup look and one that makes your client say, “Wow, I didn’t know my eyes could look like that!” And the happier your clients, the more likely they are to return to your salon. So, let’s learn how to apply lash extensions perfectly for every client.
A Quick Overview of Lash Extensions
There’s much more to lash extensions than meets the eye! Various extension types suit different styles, each of which can be customised for every customer. Extensions can be categorised by four dimensions:
Volume is the number of lashes included in each extension. Options include 2D, 3D, 4D, and 5D. Lashes can use either Russian volume or premade volume. In Russian volume lashes, the lash artist handcrafts the fans during application depending on the customer’s current lashes. Pre-mades are used by less experienced technicians. They typically don’t last as long as the Russian volume lashes.
Curl is the degree to which the extension curls, from J (a more natural, relaxed curl) to L+ (an extreme curve). Other extension curls include B, C, and D, with progressively more dramatic curls.
Thickness is the width of the extension. It extends from 0.03mm to 0.30 mm.
Length is the length of the extension. Options range from 4mm to 22mm.
The right combination of these dimensions is then mapped onto the client’s face for the optimal look. We recommend letting the gel pads that you use to protect your client’s face double as a quick guide to your custom map.
Step 1. Determine their face shape
Before you start mapping out the extensions, take note of the client’s facial features. Their shape and proportions play a big role in how the extensions will look. The lashes’ overall fullness depends on both how many of the natural lashes are filled in and the diameter of the extensions that are used. Filling in with shorter extensions and working with the client’s natural layers will also create more fullness. Fullness draws attention, which means that you can balance out your client’s natural features by mapping lashes in an opposite direction or shape.
if your client’s face is round, map out the extensions in an angular shape. (More on pattern options in a minute). If your client’s face is square, add extensions in a more rounded pattern. Long or narrow faces benefit from wide, side-swept lash maps, while short, round faces look better with lashes that sweep upward. You’ll need to take your client’s eye shape into consideration as well. Read on to learn how…
Step 2. Determine their eye type
Next, figure out your client’s eye shape and proportion. How these attributes interact with their overall face shape will help you determine the best lash map.
Start by assessing the basic shape of the client’s eye.
Almond eyes: This is the ideal eye shape. If your client already has this, enhance their natural shape with long extensions on the outer edges.
Round eyes: To balance out roundness, add thin, wispy lashes in an angular pattern. Cat’s eye patterns help stretch out the eye shape.
Narrow eyes: Use a rounded lash map with more curl to open up the eye.
If your client’s eyelid is neutral, i.e. neither continuous from their brow nor heavily creased, carry on. Otherwise, follow these tips:
Monolid: Use lash extensions with a natural curl shape to lift the lash line.
Hooded: To open up the eyes, add extensions with high curl to hide the hood. The exact pattern you should use depends on the eye shape, depth, and other factors.
Next, assess the placement of your client’s eye in the socket and the height of their brow. This will help you determine the length of the extensions you need:
Deep-set eyes: Add more lengths to draw out the eye.
Protruding eyes: Use shorter extensions to add balance.
Some people’s eyes are relatively even in the horizontal plane. However, if your client’s eyes are turned up or down, here’s how to add balance:
Upturned: If the eyes’ outer corners turn upward, you can maintain a natural look with a lash map that follows this shape. A cat’s eye looks great with upturned eyes.
Downturned: To draw attention upward, use relatively longer lashes in the middle, then use short extensions at the extreme outer corners to counteract any droopiness.
Look at how close- or wide-set your client’s eyes are. Close-set eyes can make the face appear scrunched or childlike, while wide-set eyes can seem unnatural or alien. Even out the proportions by counterbalancing:
Wide-set eyes: Make eyes appear closer by clustering short extensions near the inner corners, adding long extensions to the middle and keeping outer extensions very short.
Close-set eyes: Draw attention to the outer corners of the eyes by extending the outer lashes and keeping the middle lashes shorter.
Natural lash shape and length:
As always, counterbalance the natural shape of your client’s lashes. Naturally curly lashes need extensions with lower curl, while straight and downward-growing lashes need more curl.
Be sure not to overextend the lash — this can cause damage. A short and sparse hair can only hold an extension up to a 9mm in length, while a strong and long lash can hold one up to 13mm.
Step 3. Draw up your lash map
Once you’ve figured out your client’s face and eye shape, you can choose a lash pattern. You can customise any of these maps for your client’s unique needs.
Lashia Original Shape
This map mimics the length and proportion of natural eyelashes, and it’s been perfected to work with virtually any eye shape. The inner lashes are short, then the lashes get gradually longer as you move to the centre of the lid and toward the outer corner of the eye. The curliest extensions are in the middle. Aim to place the longest extension from the outer edge of the iris to the arch of the brow. The lashes leading from this extension to the outer corners are shorter.
Lashia Top Shape
Perfect for clients with downturned, close-set, or narrow eyes, the Top Shape also helps hooded eyes look more open. It also enhances natural almond eyes. In this shape, the middle lash is the longest and often curlier to help open up the eye. Then, the extensions gradually decline in length toward the end of the eye. The inner and outer lashes are the same length.
Clients with round faces and/or protruding eyes will love the cat-eye look, which adds dramatic angles and makes their eyes appear farther apart. Keep inner extensions short. The middle lash will be shorter than the natural shape and should be aligned with the client’s pupil. Then, gradually add length, with the outer corners featuring long, straight lashes. The idea is to tilt the shape outwards for a natural eyeliner look.
Once you’ve followed those steps, you should be able to find the perfect combination of curl, volume, thickness, and length, mapped out in a dream shape for your clients! Remember to check in with your client about her goals as well. Then map it out before you start placing extensions, and you’ll create a relaxing, transformative experience for your client.
We hope this guide is helpful for you to find the perfect lash map for each of your clients! This is just a brief overview of the amazing art of lash design. If you’d like to learn more lash mapping techniques and become a top lash artist, learn from the best: Lashia has extensive experience in the lash industry, and we’re proud to mentor aspiring lash artists. Join our training groups for one-on-one education, and be sure to check out our virtual courses! Questions? Ready to get started? Drop us a line anytime!